Special summar mountain activity
|Our 4 members||High speed||Start C-face
||The last ridge of C-face|
|Finish C-face||The next target is summit||8th peak free climb||At the summit of Tsurugi
Map Around Mt.Tsurugi
We@camped out in a certain place in the Omachi city at the previous night. Mr. and Mrs. Ichikawa met us and said, "The beer was cooled and waited for you till late yesterday" when we arrived at Ogisawa next morning. Their detailed mountaineering plan is different from ours but camping place and whole schedules are the same as us. We took the first bus buying the round-trip ticket and to the MURODO. Some half the number was occupied by trekkers this year though there were few trekkers last year.
The stairs of the rapid inclination to Jigokudani (means Hellish Valley) have been still buried in the snow. It seems to be fairly snowier than last year. As Mr. Takada and Mr. Murano's paces were awfully fast, we arrived at Tsurugi-Sawa, where it took 3 hours and 50 minutes last year, in 2 hours and 40 minutes though the burden of excess by 25-30kg. Though rock climbing was planed at Mt. Betsu after tent was constructed, we rushed into a feast because Mr. Fukasawa who only knew the rock face for climbing didnft take participate in this tour. Mr. Matsunaga who came after found the big rock which was able to do the bouldering in the camping ground, and it amused us for a while.
The plan of the day for us but Mr. Murano is alpine climbing of C-face at No. six peak of Yatsumine (means the eight mountains) and also climbing Mt. Tsurugi by traversing the length of Yatsumine. Mr. Murano would traverse to Mt. Tsurugi from Betsuyama ridge.
We got up at two o'clock and left the tent at three o'clock in the morning from the experience of Mr. Kumagaya and Mr. Matsunaga that they had to wait till some other parties would climb up away for a long time some years ago.
Daybreak was received in the Chougerou snow gorge. The instant of impression was entered, looking at the Genjiro ridge which shone deep-red by receiving the morning sun and hearing songs of birds from ridges of both sides, which nobody had not heard .
A high pace today ..no change of the aspect... Even I who was the slowest arrived at the No. six peak base, to which it took 4 hours and 20 minutes last year, for two hours.
The climb was peacefully prepared holding the rest concurrently because we didn't take a rest till arriving at here. Mr. Kumagai and Mr.Takada who arrived previously decided to unite the rope, followed by the party of Mr. Matsunaga and Sono.
Mr. Takada, the pioneer of the climbing at Tanigawa Dake, climbed the south ridge of the Tanigawa Dake with his old friends last week. They had competed for the first climb of the famous rock wall of the Tanigawa Dake named gthe wall of cup likeh in old days. And total of their age is now 204-years old. ..terrible...
The first pitch, Sono led. Mr. Takada of the preceding party was fast, and it disappeared from view with surprising swiftness.
The tension rose only because of the lead of alpine climbing at Mt. Tsurugi though the face with a low diagonal degree and the fulcrum doesn't have a lot of problems either. As it was the first time for me to use the Reverso for securing the follower, it was quite convenient.
Mr. Matsunaga, the lead of the second pitch. It was found that my Reverso was set for follower after Mr. Matsunaga had climbed two steps. Addressing Mr. Matsunaga, I changed it to ATC. I am very sorry, Mr. Matsunaga..
Anyway, the second pitch was easy though I did not so have the memory.
I asked for him the lead by the word of Mr. Matsunaga's "Shall I do?" though the third pitch was the order of my lead. The threat of the house martin was received when I secured in him, and I was surprised very much. She flew overhead with a big groan sound that it was not possible to imagine and it left.
About three parties were climbing the Chougerou snow gorge below one's eyes.
Face climbing also of the fourth pitch. Sono led and ran out of 15m or 20m as the fulcrums were not found in the latter half of the pitch in spite of having the cam devices. I reflected later to make the fulcrum firmly. Moreover, I reflected on that pull up of the rope was not matched to the speed of Mr. Matsunaga's climb, because the Reverso had been set at a low position.
A famous knife ridge is in the fifth pitch. Mr. Matsunaga left the voice with "Terrible, extreme high! " and he disappeared from the view of mine. I followed him wondering how he had climbed such a sharp knife ridge seemed to cut climberfs fingers. As I did not have courage to traverse using the opposition technique, I passed the top angle by sitting astride on the edge.
Climb ended at 8:20 safely.
It was an enjoyable climbing that it was refreshing more than grading (the second route grade class and the third highest pitch grade class).
Well, the traverse of the Yatsumine, the main dish of the day, would be started. We traversed on the track from the head of C face to the head of D face that we climbed last year, and the first rappelling from peak in north end of No. six peak. Mr. Matsunaga who wanted to climb along ridge line led the party and all the peaks were stepped.
The rout to the No. eight peak seen while I descended by rappelling from the No. seven peak was the worlds of the alpine climbing. Mr. Matsunaga and Mr. Takada tried to climb without rope.
I asked Mr. Takada to extend a rope because I dislike free solo in such high wall. As its grade was the second class a highest, its height is around 50m of full rope length and rocks are fragile and I thought it was difficult to traverse the Kitakama-One.
Marvel was Mr. Matsunaga who unabashedly does solo climbing at such wall with plastic boots. Looking at the Cleopatra needle or the left ridge line in Chin-ne, we rappelled to the Ikenotani Nokkoshi from the Head of No. Eight peak.
From here, a traverse in the north ridge line would be started.
Although the central gully of 40m height to the Head of Ikenotani from Ikenotani Nokkoshi is a normal route to climbed, we climbed the right side face because the central gully looked fragile. This is also considerably thrilling.
In spite that there is a detouring route of a little peak below 5m of it, Mr. Matsunaga who were sticking to the peak challenged the climbing to the peak of which grade was under the fourth class. He fell down about 1 or 2 meters resulted from falling out of a rock he grasped.
The shadow of people were seen on the fogy top.
There were a solo climber who traversed the north ridge line after climbing the Choujirou snow gorges and people climbing along normal route. The photograph was taken each other.
Going down the mountain along the BETSU YAMA ridge to Tsurugi Sawa was felt long as before. When I halted and panted in camping area on the last way to the tent, the laugh at making fun with "Donft stop and keep walk !" and lot of laughing of his party sounded many times.
I got angry very much but left them.
The accident happened to the feast with the length afterwards.
Apparently, one person of the drunken men seemed to have fallen from the terrace of about 3m high. I heard that he could not move at all by injuring his cervical vertebra.