Date: Jul.31. 2002
Member: Fukazawa, Sono, Funato, Kumagai
We waked up 3:00. We took simple breakfast. then departed at 4:00.
Sennnin-Ike pond route group (Mayumi-Hatori and Tanaka) started at the same time.
We arrived Tsurugi-Sawa snow valley and there is only one man except us. He said he would go
Yatsumine route alone. We arrived Tyoujirou snow valley at 5:30. We surprised that snow valley
is covered with sand and rocks. It seemed that far upper 3td peak caused big rock avalanche and
it afected from there to this point. We walked 30minute on the sand and then we found the original
snow valley. We arrived the starting point of D face at 8:00. There were relatively big bergschrund
(crevice) , however, we could go round it.
We decided to go Toyama-Dai route as is planned. Fukazawa and Sono made a group. Kumagai
and Funato made a 2nd group. We started 8:30. The first pitch went slightly leftside.
I strained because alpine climbing was after a long time. The 2nd pitch was similar as the 1st pitch.
Fukazawa at the 3rd pitch shouted that our route might be different from Toyama-Dai route.
I also thought like him because I could not find the overhang which should be located on 3rd pitch.
But Fukazawa and Sono went up directly. Kumagai and Funato thought the right side was the true route
and went to right side. The right side seemed be difficult and I thought this is the true route.
But the route became extremely difficult and we had to climb using artificial climbing method.
Later we knew that the route was not Toyama-Dai route but Kurume-Dai route. We took a long break
because we werevery tired. By the way, there is no other party in this face. Neighboring C face's last ridge
is near fromour point. But I thought no party was climbing there.
Few years ago, when I climbed the C-face route,extraordinary many climbers climbed there.
Then we continued our climbing. Next pitch had to be grade IV. But it seemed not to be difficult.
Last 5th pitch was in bush. Then we arrived the summit of D-face. Fukazawa and Sono was waiting longtime.
At this moment I had noticed that my route was Kurume-Dai route. Sono ( this time was the first experience
of alpine climbing for him. ) led the last pitch. Though it is grade II, he is courageous. It was 13:00
It was 13:00. After a short break, we went down to the col of 5th and 6th peak.
As was expected, It was very terrible go down for no rope. (We didn't use rope because there was no good
belay point.) we reached Tyoujiro snow valley at14:30. We arrived the cross point of Tojirou snow valley
and Tsurugi-Sawa snow valley at 15:30.
Here, we met Mayumi-Hatori and Tanaka by chance unexpectedly. We also met single man of this morning.
He said he could find the true route at 4th peak. We slowly returned to our tent site.
This climbing was joyful for me at the best condition and no other people there.
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| Going down of Tsurugi-Sawa snow valley in the morning | After sand, Tyoujirou snow valley seemed like its original view. | Starting of D-face climbing. | At the 4th pitch of Kurume-Dai route.We can see neighboring C-face's last ridge. | Smile of satisfaction at the summit of D-face. |
T. Kumagai